Organic cotton 14.2 oz. Rigid Japanese selvedge denim Redcast denim Faded orange thread at seams Antique silver trims Button fly Jacron patch Loose fit High waist Wide leg Wide leg opening

Italy

100% Cotton

We are thrilled to introduce our wide-leg, loose-fit, Tuff Tony in the extraordinary Dry Ace Selvage. This remarkable fabric, weighing 14.2 oz showcase a rustic texture and a deep, redcast indigo hue, is a true masterpiece. Crafted by the renowned Shinya Mills in Okayama, Japan, it exemplifies the art of perfecting selvedge denim imperfections. The story behind Dry Ace Selvage is as fascinating as the fabric itself. It all began with a vintage, unbranded pair of jeans believed to date back to the 1950s, discovered in a thrift store somewhere in the USA. These jeans displayed wear and significant fading, and most importantly an incredible texture. They made their way to Japan, where denim from the jeans was meticulously reverse-engineered in exhaustive detail. The art of reverse engineering denim is a hallmark of the artisanal Japanese denim industry. Dry Ace Selvage is a remarkable example of this craft, as well as a testament to the unique collaborative approach sometimes employed for premium Japanese denim. The rather extreme slub yarns are spun by Yamachu Mengyo Co. Ltd. in Osaka. The warp yarns undergo an impressive 20 dips in pure indigo dye, resulting in a deeply saturated surface with a notably substantial undyed core, courtesy of Kaihara Co. Ltd. in Hiroshima. Finally, the fabric is masterfully woven under low tension on vintage shuttle looms by Shinya Mills in Okayama. The guiding principle here is – do what you do best – and the final product beautifully reflects the craftsmanship at each stage of the denim's creation. Ace's distinctive character arises from its thick and highly irregular yarns, generous use of indigo, and low-tension weaving. These factors contribute to its appealingly rugged aging property. Over time, the dye rapidly abrades from the surface of the yarns, emphasizing their slub, particularly in the vertical direction. When, or if, the jeans are washed, the yarns slightly rearrange, reducing the vertical slub and transitioning to a rustic crosshatch texture with a coarse salt 'n pepper effect. Notably, the heavily saturated surface of the indigo yarns entails an extraordinary evolution. Washing initially causes the dye to bleed onto the white weft, increasing the depth of color. With successive washes, the indigo gradually fades into brighter brilliant blue hues while deeper tones are preserved at seams and folds. Due to its unparalleled aging property, Ace unquestionably stands as one of the finest Japanese selvedge denims we have ever encountered. We are therefore very proud to offer it in Tuff Tony.